Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
